Low carbon heating & insulation
Insulation guide
Low carbon heating guide
Frequently asked questions
What is the UK government doing to eliminate greenhouse gas emissions from UK buildings?
Here is a quick summary from the governments new ‘Heat and Buildings strategy’ and the latest UN climate change conference (COP26):
- Aim to phase out gas boiler installations by 2035 as gas boilers come to the natural end of their life. (However, there is no firm commitment to ban new installs after this date yet)
- Require all rented homes to be better insulated, with a minimum EPC of C by 2028.
- Reduce the cost of electricity and make gas more expensive. Currently, there are extra charges for electricity. The government will gradually move these charges to gas instead.
- Look at phasing in higher minimum performance standards to ensure all homes meet EPC Band C by 2035 where feasible.
- The government is considering voluntary targets for mortgage lenders to encourage them to lend more money against properties with higher EPC ratings. This could ultimately result in cheaper mortgage rates for greener properties. The government may even consider making these "green mortgage" targets legally binding if enough progress is not made.
- Look at phasing out the dirtiest and most expensive fossil fuels first - oil, coal and liquefied petroleum gas heating - and replace them with low carbon alternatives in homes from 2026.
- Trial ‘hydrogen homes’ to see how feasible hydrogen is as an alternative to natural gas for cooking and heating. The government will decide whether hydrogen will play a significant role in home heating by 2026.
Why is having good insulation so important?
Why do we need to stop heating our homes with natural gas and other fossil fuels?
Will my home get too hot if I add more insulation?
The opposite is usually true. Insulation prevents the rapid transfer of heat in both directions, so when a property cools overnight, a well-insulated home can help keep the heat out during a hot day.
What are the alternatives to a gas boiler for heating my home?
An alternative suitable for some homes is a heat pump that can be very efficient because it uses electricity to move heat from outside to inside. See the section on Heat Pumps below. If you are off the grid, you could consider a biomass boiler. See below:
What is a biomass boiler?
A biomass boiler is a type of boiler that uses wood in place of fossil fuels. A biomass boiler can (over the very long term) be co2 neutral if the wood comes from a sustainably managed forest.
Biomass boilers are not a great general solution to renewable heating. They encourage more wood-burning, which causes a lot of air pollution and releases carbon dioxide. Even if the wood company grows new trees, it can take a decade for the new tree to absorb the same amount of carbon. Given the current amounts of carbon in the atmosphere, ideally, we would grow more trees and stop burning existing ones!
However, it could be worth considering a biomass boiler if you are off-grid, and the other options are just to burn fossil fuel. You can reduce the co2 emissions further by insulating your home as much as possible to minimise the amount of wood you need to burn.
What’s the point in switching to a heat pump if the national grid powers it with non-renewable energy?
Recommendations for your home
Most homes have their energy efficiency assessed before being sold or let with the information recorded in an "energy performance certificate" or EPC. The Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) explains how energy-efficient the property is and gives a current and potential grade on a scale from A (excellent) to G (very poor).
It's worth looking at the EPC rating for any properties you are considering renting or buying as they give you an idea of how much it will cost to heat the property. For most properties using gas or other fossil fuel heating, the more expensive a property is to keep warm, the higher its carbon emissions will be.
Here is an example of a home with a fairly poor E grade. With various improvements, this property could get up to a C grade.
The EPC usually recommends improvements that you could make to the property to get it from the current EPC grade to the potential grade. These suggestions may be useful if you currently own a house or plan to buy a property and are interested in improving the insulation. Here is an example of what a recommendation looks like:
If you are looking to improve the insulation on your own home then an excellent first step is to look up your home's existing energy performance certificate (EPC) and check what improvements are recommended.
Wrap your home up nice and warm
Ensuring your home is well insulated is the best first step. Better insulation can reduce your CO2 emissions, heating bills, and it helps prepare your home for a low carbon heating system in the future.
If you look through the Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) you can see any insulation recommendations specifically for your home. Here are some of the most common home improvements and typical costs:
Double glazing
Fitting double or triple glazed windows reduces the heat lost through your windows. Note that if your home is listed or in a conservation area, there may be restrictions on the types of windows you can fit.
Typical cost - £3000 to over £6,000 for a three-bed semi (£300 to £600 per window depending on size)
Cavity wall insulation
A lot of heat escapes through a property’s externally facing walls. Homes built after the 1920s usually have two layers of bricks for the outside walls. Cavity wall insulation involves drilling holes in the wall and injecting insulating material into the gap.
Typical cost - £400 to over £800 for a whole house (Around £200 for each two-storey wall)
Attic insulation
The current recommendations are to have insulation of between 270mm to 300mm thickness. If you have an attic without insulation or with only very thin insulation, this can be an excellent improvement to your home.
Typical cost - £300 to £400 (It can cost more if you wish to have flooring put down over the insulation)
Room-in-roof insulation
Room-in-roof insulation is a way to insulate a converted attic or loft by adding insulation boards on the ceiling underneath the existing plasterboard walls. If you don't have a loft conversion, then Attic insulation may be a better option for you.
Typical cost - £400 to £500
Solid wall insulation
If you have an older home built before the 1920s, then the house’s external walls may only be a single layer thick, making them unsuitable for cavity wall insulation. To insulate these walls, you need to add insulation on the outside or inside the external walls. Be aware that external wall insulation will change the exterior look and may not be allowed in a conservation area or on a listed building. Internal wall insulation will take up some space in the room as the external walls will be thicker.
Typical cost - £4,000 to £15,000 for internal wall insulation, depending on size (£7,000 to £20,000 for external)
Finding a good installer
It's a good idea to get a few quotes from reputable tradespeople before deciding to go ahead. Every house is slightly different, and someone experienced can recommend which solutions they think would work best. Here are a few services that can help you find a reliable person or company to fit insulation to your home. It's always a good idea to check out the reviews and how long they have been in business. Rogue traders can rapidly set up and close down businesses, so check how long they have been in business.
CheckaTrade
Enter "Insulation" (or a specific insulation type) into the search box and your postcode to find recommendations.
https://www.checkatrade.com/Trusted Trader
https://www.trustatrader.com/insulation-companiesWhich Trusted Trader
Enter "Insulation installers" into the search box and your location
https://trustedtraders.which.co.uk/Rated People
With Rated People. you first post your job and then get sent a selection of tradespeople that you can consider
https://www.ratedpeople.com/local-thermal-insulationRenewable heating - Heat pumps
A heat pump warms your home using heat extracted from the ground or air outside your home. It does this by either heating the air directly or the water in your central heating system. A heat pump is a low carbon alternative to a boiler, but it isn’t a drop-in replacement and isn’t suitable for all properties.
Here are some considerations:
- High upfront cost (although you can eventually recoup some of the costs under the Boiler upgrade scheme)
- They tend to be much more cost-efficient if you have good insulation - so try to improve insulation first if possible!
- Your plumbing and radiators may also need to be upgraded
- Space requirements for external unit (And garden space + access needed for ground source heat pumps)
- Noise considerations and placement of the external fan unit for air source heat pumps.
Air source heat pumps
Air source heat pumps are the most common type of heat pump. An external fan unit extracts heat from the air to warm your home. There are two main types:
Air-to-water heat pump
An air-to-water pump transfers heat from the outside to water, which can heat your radiators or underfloor heating. It can also heat water stored in a hot water cylinder for your hot taps and showers. This system is usually more expensive than an air-to-air system but is popular as it can provide a complete replacement for a gas boiler.
Typical cost - £8,000 - £12,000 For the heat pump and installation
Money-back under BUS (Boiler upgrade scheme) - £5000
On top of the costs for the heat pump, you may also need to upgrade pipework or radiator sizes, significantly increasing costs. Note that there are several requirements you need to meet to get money back under the Boiler upgrade scheme.
Air-to-air heat pump
These systems are less popular in the UK as most of our homes do not have the ducting required to allow the warmed (or cooled) air to travel around the house, and retrofitting ducting can be tricky. Still, it might be worth considering if your home doesn't currently have pipework and a wet central heating system. The heated air is transferred from the external unit through air ducts to internal units that blow hot air into the rooms. You can switch to a reverse mode with some air to air heat pumps to provide cooling in the summer.
Ground source heat pumps
Ground source heat pumps use underground pipes to absorb heat from outside and transfer it inside your home to heat the water in your central heating system. To install a ground source heat pump, you need a large garden to lay the pipes horizontally, or you would need access to your garden for drilling equipment to drill boreholes for a vertical installation.
Ground source heat pumps tend to be more efficient than air-source heat pumps but have higher initial installation costs.
Typical costs - £14,000 - £19,000
Money-back under BUS (Boiler upgrade scheme) - £6000
Note that there are several requirements you need to meet to get money back under the boiler upgrade scheme.
Finding a heat pump installer
Working out your home’s exact heating requirements requires some detailed heat loss calculations. You may want to consider looking for a certified company under the MCS scheme.
Find an MCS installer here - This site allows you to search for Certified installers, although it is still good to look at independent reviews for customer feedback.
Note that if you want to get money back under the Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) then one of the requirements is that the installer is MCS certified.
Boiler upgrade scheme
New scheme launched April 2022
The Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) replaces the older Renewable Heat Incentive (RHI) scheme. To take part you need to get one or more quotes from MCS certified installers, your chosen installer does the work of claiming from the BUS scheme and you pay a lower price as the BUS voucher will be deducted from your installation costs.
How much can I get?
The voucher values will be: £5,000 for an air source heat pump (or biomass boilers in rural areas when a heat pump is not viable) £6,000 for a ground source or water source heat pumps
Who is eligible?
The requirements are:
- You will need an EPC certificate that is not out of date (they are valid for 10 years)
- If your EPC recommends attic or cavity wall insulation, you will need to complete that work before you can cash in the voucher.
- You must be replacing a fossil fuel boiler of any kind or direct electric heating system (such as storage heaters, electric panel radiators or an electric boiler).
Your MCS registered installer can help you understand how the scheme works if you have any questions.
More information is available here from Ofgem on the Boiler Upgrade SchemeDraught proofing
If you have draughty or cold areas in your home then draught-proofing is likely to be one of the most cost-effective ways to reduce your heating bills and household carbon emissions.
It’s worth looking around your home for problems areas where it’s often cold or draughty and looking for the specific cause. On a cold day, you can do this by moving your hand around to feel for cold areas. Here are a few key places to check:
- Windows - You should check all around any external windows, particularly any parts that open, including any parts of sash windows.
- Doors - Around external doors. Make sure you check you also check the bottom and top of the doors, around the locks, keyholes and any letterboxes.
- Chimneys - Check any open chimneys, as they can be a major cause of draughts, often you can feel the cold coming down through the chimney making nearby areas chilly.
- Vent holes - Although rooms may need ventilation to avoid damp, the wind should not be able to blow directly through a giant hole! Check you can’t see right through the hole and feel for a breeze or the cold.
If you find it hard to detect the cold with your hand, you could try holding a burning incense stick near the area you are testing, if cold air is getting into your home then the smoke from the incense stick will flow with the draught.
Example in a youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwPMx4m9_Dc
Doors
Draught proofing involves closing any gaps around windows, doors and other locations that cold air can get into your home. Professional draught proofing typically costs about £200 but it can be much less if you do it yourself.
Typical cost - Around £200 (Less if you do it yourself)